🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.